"JACKIE"

JACKIE COSGROVE

Part 1 of 2 parts

What do 6 continents in the world and horses have in common. One brave, adventurous woman rider from New Zealand. From the age of 3 riding and owning her first pony, Jackie grew in her respect and experience for horses. After years of being devoted to raising 5 children and selling the successful busines she and her husband set up, Jackie dared to dream of a horse trek adventure overseas.

"When my husband became a born again Christian I said to him "have you gone crazy"? I was never interested and it just seemed so foreign to me. Growing up, my Sundays were spent in pony club and although my parents did send us kids off to Sundy school, they themselves were not believers. My husband and I started going to church together, but I was digging my toes in. I think due to my nosey nature I started to ask more questions and noticed changes in my husband.  It was a big shift from doing my own thing to dedicating my life to God. I heard of people giving their lives to Jesus and the sky becoming bluer and the grass greener, but it was not like that for me. It was more gradual and short time later I also made a commitment to Jesus. As our kids grew up with our lives focused on the Lord, I could see there definitely was a greater power and as a family our faith grew and deepened".

On this first adventure Jackie was accompanied by her then, 17 year old daughter on a 7 day horseback trek of 130 kilometers through the Andes mountain range, crossing from Argentina into Chile. The varied terrain encompasses glaciers, volcanoes, grassland, desert, lakes, rivers and forest.  Passports were easy but Jackie needed to get documents signed to prove she was not kidnapping her daughter and taking her through a treacherous mountain trail from one country into another. Visas for South America in hand, feet shod in riding boots on the 18+ hour flight, kit packed with thermal horse riding gear plus tent, they arrived in Mendoza, Argentina where 2 local gauchos [guides] and another 3 Argentinian male riders awaited them only one speaking broken English. They all were shocked that 2 females would come all the way from New Zealand to horse trek through such challenging, demanding terrain.  "We were determined to show them we were capable riders and could put up our own tent and look after ourselves. I think as the trek continued they were 'gobsmacked' at our perseverance and abilities. It was a marvelous opportunity to carry the light of Jesus".

A thorough check by the gauchos  [guides and experienced local horsemen wearing traditional ponchos and straw hats] was made of their kit to ensure they had the necessary horse riding gear for such rugged conditions. The following day the group was transported via 4 wheel drive through the rugged national park terrain at the base of the Andes to a remote outpost where the horse trek was to start." The terrain was so rugged that even though we were practised with 4 wheel driving in New Zealand, this was like nothing we had ever experienced before. I don't even think a vehicle was supposed to go up them".

The trek started off in warm mild summer weather, until the afternoon of third day when a freezing cold blizzard struck.  The gauchos called it a once in one hundred year blizzard, with snow bringing temperatures down dramatically. After one of the guides fell off his horse 3 times, the decision was made to carefully turn the horses around and head back down the mountain to the safety of our sheltered lunch spot. As we rode back the weather further deteriorated with visibility reduced to 3 meters. Setting up tents to stay there overnight was unthinkable, so in blizzard like conditions, we retraced our steps all the way back to the camp site from the previous night. The horses had icicles hanging off their eyelashes and big clumps of snow on their manes. When they lifted up their hooves they had blocks of ice attached. We had every item of clothing on although our gloves proved inadequate and we felt the beginning of frost nip on our fingertips. When we finally dismounted we struggled to stand upright after the marathon ride in appalling conditions. These conditions certainly tested our endurance and stamina after 12 hours in the saddle crossing one icy river 5 times. We thanked the Lord for keeping us safe assured of His faithfulness and the prayers of many at home. We were both very aware this long hazardous day may have turned out very differently if God had not been watching over us. After warming up with a hot meal we gratefully curled up in our sleeping bags in our trusty tent and awoke the next day to clear blue skies. Our excitement and the mood of our companions lifted with the temperatures. Answered prayers!

Psalm 95:3-5 For the Lord is the great God, the great King above all gods. In His hand are the depths of the earth, and the mountain peaks belong to Him. The sea is His, for he made it and His hands formed dry land.

We saddled up once more appreciating the sheepskin saddle covers, and retraced our footsteps up through the snowy mountain pass adding an extra day to our itinerary. We climbed to a height on the mountain pass of 4,500 meters [higher than any mountain in New Zealand. Mount Cook sits at 3724 meters] We felt blessed the blizzard had passed bringing sunshine and clear blue skies. Along the narrow rocky trail we continued, a sheer drop on one side and a steep snowy towering mountain slope on the other. The contrast of pure white snow against the blue sky was startling. In the 1800's General Jose San Martin an Argentinian general and leader of South America's successful struggle for independence from the Spanish empire, led his army of 5,000 men on this same track through the Andes to Chile and eventually triumphed in battle. Once we came down from the mountain the gaucho suggested we might enjoy a gallop in the wide open plain. We needed no encouragement and after days of picking our way carefully up and then down narrow tracks, we were off with the wind. "When the men eventually caught up to us we were told the gauchos were shocked and impressed at our riding skills. It blew them away how we just took off galloping".

"Some of the river crossings were pretty hair raising with the gauchos standing by with lasso's at the ready in case someone fell into the rushing icy water. We were determined it would not be us". Most days were 4 to 8 hours in the saddle, so once we arrived at a camp site we would erect the tents, take care of the horses and prepare the fire to cook our evening meal. This was often a local stew made up of minced beef, beans, potatoes, carrots, onions and green red chilli peppers cooked over the open fire. The stew seasoned with capers, lemon juice and cheese was hearty, delicious and always welcome.

Once we arrived at the stark Chile border an exchange was made with the horses [due to the foot and mouth epidemic at that time] and gauchos. "We thought it amusing the wild guanacos[wild breed of llama] roamed freely but we had to swap our horses to follow regulations".  Our bags were searched once more and we prepared mentally for the next 3 nights trekking in Chile. We were so aware that even in the most dangerous circumstances in a far off land,  we were under God's protection.  The colours on the mountains were glorious and we could see seams of the white talc rock [a metamorphic rock when finely ground is used to make talcum powder].

We felt such exhilaration and had enjoyed this adventure in God's incredible creation so much, that when we trotted into the final outpost, we were already wondering where we could go for our next horse trekking adventure.

"He opens before me the pathways to God's pleasure and leads me along, so that I can bring honour to His name. If I go His speed and follow Him daily, and continue to abide in Him, learning to carry His presence, my life will bring Him all of the honour He could ever want of me." Psalm 23 translation.

Part 2 of 2 parts

The Andes provided an epic and adventurous horse trek. Over 6 years, my next 6 choices took me to 5 more continents all unique in their own ways. Oh the goodness of God.

"My second trek again with my daughter, was this time in British Colombia, Canada [home of Whistler ski resort] for a cattle drive. 7 days riding, driving Texas longhorn cattle from high altitudes to lower grazing areas for the winter months. Most days were 4 - 8 hours in the saddle with a huge number of people (300) from various parts of Canada and the world, and like us they were there to experience a cattle drive with the wranglers in charge. This was such a different experience from the Andes trek, (not as dangerous)as all our gear was taken daily to each point, and a huge food truck to provide all our sustenance. There was no sitting around a camp fire although horse riding stories were shared and friendships built. "We again wanted to be friendly and helpful, aware in each situation we carried the light of Jesus". Jackie returned alone to Alberta, Canada some time later for a comparatively sedate 7 day horse trek through the Rocky mountains. Diverse country along quiet trails admiring the vast Rocky mountain backdrop. "Thankfully the closest we came to a bear was his scat which looked to me like raspberry jam on the track. Somewhere close by he was feasting on wild huckleberries. All food was hoisted high on poles out of the reach of hungry bears".

In between the Canadian treks Jackie ventured on her own to Botswana for a 13 day safari trek. "WOW WOW WOW what more can I say, WOW was my first day diary entry". I was picked up from the small dirt track airport and taken via 4 wheel drive (open top) to the safari compound.  Not even one minute away from the small plane, I scrambled for my camera to capture images of ostriches, wildebeest, giraffe, impalas, zebras. Later at the compound, I was shown which tent to put my gear into, and Kolbus [guide] took me out for a ride to evaluate my level of horsemanship and also to teach me some local safety rules. "If we see a herd of elephants, stop. If I crack my whip to scare the elephants, stay still. If that doesn't work and they charge us then I will fire my gun to hopefully frighten them away. If that happens turn your horse around and make a run for it but bear in mind your horse will run around a bush or tree, an elephant will run straight through". When I signed up for the safari,  I signed pages of indemnity forms thinking these were really just a formality and I doubted there was any real need for them. I was mistaken. On that first day just outside the compund we came across a herd of elephants quietly grazing with their young calves amongst the long stalky African grass. I was taking photos with my reins loosely in my hand when Kolbus yelled out, 'Jackie run'. An elephant was charging towards me and I had been so caught up in the moment and my photography I hadn't noticed. With my camera between my teeth, I swung my horse around and bolted back to the safety of the compound". Thank you Jesus!  The loud angry trumpeting noises, the massive size and my surprise were memorable. How creative God was in making all animals so different, so elegant in their movements and so majestic. How imaginitive to give stripes to the zebra and long graceful velvety necks to the zebra. The varied colours and textures provided outstanding camouflage, often the animals hid in plain sight  I was an intruder in their world and marvelled at the varieties, the numbers in the herds, the sounds they made and their antics. "Another day away from our tent site we watched many varieties of wildlife grazing and moving about when Kolbus put up his hand to stop. He whispered to me 'don't talk, don't make any sudden movements, don't canter, we are being tracked by a lioness'. I could see nothing but trusted his knowledge and trained eyesight. We moved slowly away but later against a rocky outcrop I spotted our dangerous predator watching us and stealthily positioning herself. A spin chilling feeling! Away from the safety of the base compound, old army surplus tents were erected for us to sleep in, with a perimeter of fires at night to keep the wild animals at bay while Kolbus sat with a gun in his lap in case of emergency. Each night lying on my camp stretcher listening to the noises of the night was eerie. On my last day we were quietly moving amongst a large herd of elephants in the bush with dust making visibilty difficult. I was made aware that our backup rider, Festus, had come off his horse. His horse had bolted leaving him at the mercy of the charging herd of angry elephants. Kolbus was cracking his whip and fired shots and we all made it out safely. But when I looked, the black face of Festus, it was ash grey. Later that night around the campfire Kolbus said 'I thought that was going to end badly. I thought there was going to be a death. That's the closest call I have ever had to elephants charging'. I marveled once more, at the protection and faithfulness of God".

And God said 'let the land produce living creatures according to their kinds: livestock, creatures that move along the ground, wild animals, each according to its kind. And it was so.' Genesis 1:24

The 4th continent, Mongolia. Landlocked with mountain peaks, jagged gorges, Genghis Khan country, yaks, and yurts [circular tent of felt or animal skins used by nomads in Mongolia now adopted by many countries of the world]. The traditional herds of animals called the 'five jewels or snouts', are horses, sheep, goats, yaks (cows) and camels. In Ulaanbaatar [capital of Mongolia] I met up with the 7 others on our 7 day trek. On an uncomfortable bus trip over precarious tracks, we drove into the middle of what seemed like nowhere, but was the Khan Khenti special protected area riding into the Gorkhi-Tereji National park. The rugged horses apparently recently rounded up, lassoed and hastily broken in were matched to each of us determined by height and weight. I was up with the 4.30am sunrise and went for a wander around the camp marvelling at the vibrant colours of the sunrise. As I gazed at the mountains I could once again feel the presence and majesty of God. Another country, another continent, another horse trek, another adventure but the same almighty God who created it all. I felt so blessed to be there. We trekked through vast areas of wildflowers, so many varieties turning their pretty often purple faces to the summer sun. Small children herded the yaks with no adults in sight. Every morning we were supplied with fresh yoghurt made from yak milk, ate stews of unidentified meat, and one evening sampled 'airag/arak' the fermented mares milk and a key source of the locals nutrition. Slightly sour with a small percentage of alcohol and very unpleasant to my taste. I tried to taste local 'delicacies' wherever I went and on this occasion, learnt quickly not to put my cup down as it was quickly refilled.

Spain in the summer came next. A trek of 7 days up through the Sierra Navada mountain range stopping each night at small local inns with hot showers which was such luxury after the other more basic horse treks. On a fine day we could see over to Morocco.

The last 7 day trek in Jordan began in the red sand of the Wadi Rum [Petra] where Moses and the Israelites walked after crossing the Red Sea. Spectacular rock formations radiated the heat, making rest in the afternoons essential for both horses and riders. We chose to sleep under the stars, marveling at the clear brilliance and majesty of the night skies. On the final night we slept in a Bedouin [nomadic desert tribe] camp under the stars. During the night it started to pour with rain and we had to make a run for shelter and pitch our tents under the screens of the non waterproof Bedouin tents. The striking colours of the landscape with pinks, oranges,  creams, and blacks proved difficult to do justice to on camera.  I tried the local nutriment, warm camels milk on our final morning. It was quite watery and had its own unique taste but thankfully, palatable.

Each experience so unique but the quest for adventure and the challenges kept drawing me back. Although my riding skills were valued everywhere I went, I believed God enabled me and provided for me every where I went. He wanted to show me His marvelous creation, knowing I would appreciate it and tell of His wonders across the many continents,  and especially back home with family and friends praying for me every step of the way.

Psalm 105:2 'Sing to Him, yes sing praises to Him: tell of all His wonderful acts'.